Testimonials

Testimonials from cyclists who have travelled in Toraja and South South Sulawesi, Indonesia

Toraja July 2011

Julie Fox (Company Director Auckland)
Riding along with the sun on my back, enjoying the tropical scene in front of me I barely had a thought for my country folk back home experiencing freezing southerly winds and hail. Things don’t get much better than this trip but it didn’t start out too good. We overlooked to check our bags through customs on our arrival in Jakarta so we arrived in Sulawesi with no bags and no bikes!! Luckily Colin (trip organizer) was able to communicate with customs and airport staff and organize to get our bags and bikes to the hotel by the next morning. Phew!

Having Colin made the difference between an organized tour and a do it yourself trip so much more enriching. Colin was very knowledgeable and was frequently used as a translator to answer our many questions, one of which was the truth about the cats with half tails. Although the trip was organized there was also flexibility. On one day the plan was to circum-cycle Toraja. At the last moment Colin became aware of a big funeral that he suggested we see. We agreed to the suggestion and as it was on the planned route it was easy to drop in. Our time at the funeral cut into the day’s cycle time and when it looked like we’d be pedaling back to the hotel in the dark Colin organized a truck to pick the bikes up and the hassle of riding in the dark without lights on the village road was avoided.

I would recommend this trip to anyone wanting some warmth and sunshine in the dead of winter, who is keen to learn a new culture, has a sense of adventure, loves to try new foods and cycle "off the beaten tourist trail". Feel free to contact me.
"Julie Fox"
gjfox@actrix.co.nz

Central Sulawesi March 2011

Lisa Paine (retired school teacher, Brisbane)
Our recent 2 week cycling trip in Central Sulawesi was, in a word, fantastic! It is definitely a trip for people who love to ride, with an average of 80 often hilly km per day. And its a trip for people who want to feel they they are really living the culture, not just having a look from a distance.

Sulawesi is a large, mountainous island. Right on the equator, but no, its not that hot. Maybe because of the proximity to the sea. It has the lowest population density of any Indonesian island, and virtually no tourism. Although there was sometimes a fair bit of traffic, I felt we cyclists were always treated with care and respect by drivers.

I'll try for some atmosphere: Coconut palms, rice paddies, banana trees. Forested mountains giving way to views of turquoise sea. Mosque domes alternating with church steeples, with a Balinese Hindu temple thrown in now and then. (Balinese "trans-migrants" who were moved because it was too crowded there.) Chickens; everywhere. Beautiful cows and goats (Muslim towns only) to be eaten after Ramadan, but meanwhile free ranging happily. Mangy dogs defined the Christian areas. Kids; everywhere. Smiles; everywhere! "Helllooo Mistair!!" "I love you!"

The villages lined the roads (just one building deep, generally), and then the farms were behind. Mountains rose up pretty sharply andpretty quickly. They grew lots of cocoa trees, and dried the beans along the road, along with coconut. The villages were quite neat, with pastel colours giving a sort of Caribbean look. Lots of flowers lovingly arranged in old tins.

We'd start early and ride more or less all day, but with lots of rest stops when our driver would bring us cups of tea and bananas, and the locals would come to check out the strange sight. Colin would act as our interpreter, so we were able to converse. Colin had arranged our lunch stops ahead of time. The food was great and very healthy: rice, veg, fish, chicken, tofu, sambal (chilli sauce). No fat no sweets for 2 weeks! We were able to procure beer for those who wanted it most evenings.

Our days also included swimming, either in the crystal clear sea or in a beautiful fresh water lake that it took us 3 days to circumnavigate, or in rivers/waterfalls. Oh and the yoga. Colin is a yoga nut.

Accommodation was sometimes quite limited, so Colin had arranged the best he could, keeping in mind it had to be at appropriate distances. It varied from modest to very modest, but perfectly ok, and always with plenty of character.

The whole trip had a adventurous, "seat of the pants" feel to it. This was the first time for this particular trip. Things happened during the day according to who we met, the state of the road (big landslide one day), facilities available (yoga on rickety platforms hanging out over the sea.)

I loved it, loved the other riders, loved the Indonesians, ADORED our leader/guru, and I for one am considering his trip to Toraja (another part of Sulawesi) in July.
"Lisa Paine"

SOUTH SOUTH SULAWESI 2010

Neil (teacher) & Sonia (nurse) Hegarty (Toowoomba, Qld)
In January 2010, we contacted Colin to make some tentative enquiries regarding his Cycle Sulawesi tours. At that stage, we were only doing some regular 10-20km recreational rides through our local parks but, with Colin's encouragement, we gradually built this up over a six month period to complete some 60-80km weekend rides around the Toowoomba range escarpment in the hope that we would be suitably prepared for the July South South Sulawesi tour.

The preparation proved to be totally appropriate as we were able to complete and thoroughly enjoy the trip. Colin’s depth of understanding on all matters Indonesian, his language skills and his sense of fun and adventure made the trip an experience that we will never forget. With some very good-natured and supportive fellow cyclists, we put in some big cycle days in a wide variety of conditions to fully immerse ourselves in the culture of South South Sulawesi.

Particular highlights included;
  • the frequent and detailed conversations with local people going about their daily routines
  • eating high quality and thoughtfully organised local foods
  • the friendliness and warmth of the people
  • learning a variety of day-to-day Indonesian etiquette and basic language skills
  • completing daily yoga sessions
  • shopping for basic provisions in local markets
  • the well organised daily structure that included a variety of non-cycling activities, and
  • the excellent support of the Indonesian drivers and mechanics who accompanied us and contributed much to the group dynamic

  • This trip was an excellent experience and we would highly recommend it to anyone who is willing to meet some physical challenges to gain an incredible insight into a different culture. Being on a bicycle enabled levels of contact with the local people that other forms of transport simply do not allow. Colin's commitment to our complete enjoyment of the experience was amazing.
    "Neil & Sonia"

    Toraja trip February 2010

    Charlie Farren (retired teacher)
    How fortunate I was to have heard about this amazing trip to Indonesia. It was an opportunity to visit and explore a fascinating country which would not have been possible without the support and organisation of Cycle Indonesia. We regularly travel as independent cycle tourists but it was obvious that to enjoy Sulawesi and begin to have an understanding of the people, language and culture would have been impossible without the in depth knowledge provided by Colin Freestone and his crew.
    It was an extraordinary experience - lots of cycling, eating and sightseeing in a little known part of the world which for Australians is virtually on our doorstep.
    "Charlie Farren"
    farren@onedaysoon.net


    Scott Main (bike shop owner)
    I did Colin’s South South Sulawesi and after it wrote that it was ‘awesome’. This Toraja trip was double awesome. I used to be a professional cyclist so look at cycle trips with a critical eye. For me this trip had everything. There was more than enough cycle challenge. The scenery was fantastic with lots of variety. And Torajan culture is just so different to ours. The trip was really well planned with one day rolling easily into the next. Each day too was planned and they too evolved naturally. Our group had a range of cycling strength and experience but Colin kept us all together so that our spirits were always high. A terrific cycling, cultural and social experience.
    Scott Main
    ironmain@bigpond.net.au


    Lesley Hale (active retiree)
    If you have reached this website then you are attracted by travel to unusual places, an authentic cultural experience, supported challenging cycling, and the company of like-minded riders. Your next step is to clarify any uncertainties about the itinerary, resolve any concerns about the route or terrain or climate, and basically ensure that it is a trip that is right for you. The best way to do this is to email Colin with a few easy questions to establish a dialogue; then answer the phone when he calls... and you will work it all out in no time.

    Colin has a long association with Indonesia and is strongly motivated to share his love of the country and its people with groups of fellow cyclists. The trip was truly remarkable, taking us through the coastal Buginese (muslim) region to the cooler forested highlands where Torajan (Christian and animist) communities are recognizable by their stunning architecture. Mid-way we took a break from cycling to trek through forests and steeply terraced paddy fields to stay with a village clan in their homes, and completed the circuit next day by trekking two hours to reach the river for a thrilling white-water rafting ride through gorges and past tall waterfalls. A favourite memory from the trip was an unscheduled visit to an impressively joyful orphanage outside the main town where children who had been at school for the morning shift treated us to an afternoon concert of music and dancing with their bamboo orchestra.

    The ride was fully supported with front and rear vehicles announcing "cyclists ahead", and it was a delight to be cheered on by other road users and school-kids along the way. Rest stops were planned to suit the terrain, weather, time of day, length of ride, and condition of the riders, sometimes after 30km, sometimes every 5 km. Colin’s attitude was "it’s not a race, go at your own pace, and my aim is to get us all there". The leading van-driver would pull over at each stop and flag down the riders; sometimes riders might have a quick nap in a bamboo shelter or a tea/coffee while water bottles were filled and fruit/cakes distributed. As Colin was keen for us to interact with the local people, he put some effort into Bahasa language sessions. When it was time to get on our bikes after a stop, he would trigger a Bahasa numbering-off around the group, much to the delight of onlookers.

    The equator goes through Sulawesi, so it is always hot; but the wet season rains can make it marginally less hot than the mid-year dry season. Setting out early means you can do much of the riding in the cooler part of the day, have lunch out of the sun, then complete the distance with lots of drink stops. We had minor showers a couple of times while riding in February, and one downpour while in a restaurant at lunchtime; the real rain seemed to come at the end of a day’s ride, or overnight. If swimming was possible - in the sea, a river, hot spring, or hotel pool - we did.

    While cycling happily in this foreign land, I often found myself musing about how privileged I felt to be sharing Colin’s meticulously orchestrated journey with his charmingly attentive support crew and a cohesive group of companions, several of whom had done "a Colin trip" six months earlier. Colin is an excellent group manager who aims to get everyone to the finish, smiling; and that is how it unfolded for our group of strong and not so strong, older and younger riders. Managing a group adventure like this is a gargantuan task, and Colin coped with all eventualities expertly and sensitively; somehow, everyone’s preferences seemed to be accommodated throughout. I wouldn’t be surprised to find myself on the 2011 (Central Sulawesi) trip with others from this one.

    Ibi Losoncz (PhD student)
    I’ve done two of Colin’s Sulawesi trips. I did South South Sulawesi in 2009 and six months later did the Toraja trip. They were both fantastic; filled with well organized, different and exciting activities. The cycling was excellent with some great hills and challenges. I’m not one to get excited about hills, but when the scenery is as beautiful as that in Sulawesi, even the hills look good!!! Torajan culture and architecture is nothing I’ve seen before.
    Every day was a new experience and a new discovery. The only thing that was constant is the friendliness of the local people, who always had time for chat. I highly recommend this trip to anyone looking for a stress-free, well o rganized, fun cycling holiday with some adventures (for good measure).
    Ibolya.Losoncz@anu.edu.au


    Paul Nicol (retired accountant)
    I did the South South Sulawesi trip in August 2009. The heat and hills nearly killed me but the support of the group and the friendliness of the Indonesian people – especially the kids – helped make up my mind to sign up for the February 2010 Toraja trip. Cycle wise the second trip was better 'cause I prepared myself better. Culture wise this Toraja trip has a lot going for it. Torajan life with its focus on water buffalo commerce and rituals associated with 'the dead' is a far cry from my life. Scenery wise Toraja's fantastic, with terraced hillsides, boat shaped houses with the spires of European styled churches reaching for low lying clouds. I'm really glad I did both these trips. I made new friends and felt that I achieved something. if you want a trip that really tests you , this is the one.

    From South South Sulawesi (August 2009)

    The following includes excerpts from testimonials written by riders who went on the 2009 South South Sulawesi trip. Full testimonials are available, just send an email letting me know you’d like a copy. Also, all of the riders below are happy to talk with anyone interested in cycling in South Sulawesi with Colin.


    Jennie Attrill (nurse, 27)
    For me, this was really a fantastic experience and I am very glad to have done it.
    The descents, the delicious food, the breaks, beautiful and in some parts shabby scenery, snorkelling, karaoke, accommodation, even toilet breaks and most memorably the curiosity, warmth and energy of the locals really made up for these challenges. Colin was professional, enthusiastic, knowledgeable which made it a HELL of a lot easier to interact with people of Salawesi and gain a feeling of the life on the island. Oops nearly forgot, yes, the tour was well organised. I’ll be sure to sign up again for another trip... Feel free to contact me if you would like to discuss my experience about this tour.
    jennie_attrill@hotmail.com


    Scott Main (bike engineer, 42)
    I took this trip in August 2009. It was AWESOME. I'd be happy to talk to anyone about it. Just phone me on +61 2 6260 4200 or email me.
    ironmain@bigpond.net.au


    Paul Nicol (retired accountant 65)
    I paid dearly for my lack of preparation. But, the scenery, support from the other riders, the daily ride planning and the incredible warmth and friendliness of the Indonesian people offset my aching limbs and over-worked perspiration glands. I enjoyed myself so much so that I've decided to do another Sulawesi adventure... to Toraja...
    paulthozet@yahoo.com.au


    Rob Wildman (Human resource manager, 54)
    Colin, whose long experience in this part of the world, is very comfortable with the local customs and language, and in putting together this trip, has got it ‘just right’.

    The organisation of the journey is unseen and everything just happens, seemingly without being arranged.

    The trip simply puts you in a position where you can feel you have done it on your own and this is where it is very different from other trips.
    rwildman@optusnet.com.au


    Ibi Losoncz (PhD student, 46)
    What better way to discover this beautiful island and its culture than by cycling your way from one village to the next? The organisation of the trip was excellent. It was well planned, but with room for spontaneous activities. The group was well supported in every aspect; bike mechanics, refreshments including fresh local snacks at the stops, yoga classes, fantastic dinners, and accommodation.
    Ibolya.Losoncz@anu.edu.au


    Eli Baron (Plano, Texas)
    Bapak Colin,
    I have done many bike rides and the one I did in Sulawesi with you was a unique and very special experience... Sulawesi beautiful scenery and awe inspiring views were enriched by your knowle3dge of the local culture and language... The frequent rest stops where we practiced yoga, had a cup of coffee and/or tea... pastries, bananas and other fruits provided the opportunity to stretch our body and mind... as well as as to interact with local people who were curios about our being there... The refreshing stops to swim in rivers and streams along the way were a delight, as were the nights we stayed at the shores of Lakes and the Ocean. The bike ride had all and more of what one can expect from a bike in a far away place... We enjoyed mountains, lakes, the ocean and a very special and interesting immersion into local culture...
    The bike ride you led in Sulawesi was a truly life enriching experience...

    Thank you very much.... Terima Kasih Banyak...
    eb.boatman@gmail.com



    POST SCRIPT

    4/5 riders from August 2009 signed up to do the February 2010 Toraja trip. Jennie had to withdraw at the last minute.